Kalpit Mohanty
Bhubaneswar: As the autumn air fills with the scent of incense and the sound of devotional songs, Odisha transforms into a land of vibrant festivities. The puja season in this eastern Indian state is not just a time of spiritual reflection, but also a celebration of its rich culinary heritage. From the streets of Bhubaneswar to the homes in rural villages, the aroma of special dishes wafts through the air, telling a story of tradition, devotion, and community.
The Sacred and the Savory
At the heart of Odisha's puja celebrations is the concept of "bhoga" - food offerings made to deities. These offerings, later distributed among devotees as "prasad," form the cornerstone of the state's festive cuisine.
Jagannath Panda, a 65-year-old priest at the famous Jagannath Temple in Puri, explains the significance:
"During puja, we prepare 56 different types of bhoga for Lord Jagannath. Each item is carefully chosen and prepared according to ancient traditions. It's not just food; it's a form of devotion."
This devotion translates into an array of delectable dishes that are as diverse as they are delicious. One such iconic preparation is the "Khaja," a sweet, deep-fried pastry that's crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.
Sujata Mishra, a homemaker from Cuttack, shares her family's tradition:
"Making Khaja during Durga Puja is a must in our household. The sweet aroma fills our home, and it's a joy to offer it to the goddess and share it with neighbors. It's not just about taste; it's about carrying forward our heritage."
A Symphony of Flavors
The puja season in Odisha is incomplete without the "Pitha" - a category of sweet and savory rice cakes that come in various forms. From the steamed "Enduri Pitha" to the fried "Arisa Pitha," these delicacies showcase the culinary expertise passed down through generations.
Anita Rath, a food historian, elaborates:
"Pithas are more than just festive treats. They represent the agricultural abundance of Odisha. The use of rice, coconut, and jaggery in these dishes reflects our connection to the land and seasons."
One of the most beloved pitha varieties is the "Poda Pitha," a baked rice cake with a caramelized crust. Its preparation is a labor of love, often taking hours to achieve the perfect texture and flavor.
The Vegetarian Feast
While sweets take center stage, the savory dishes of Odisha during puja are equally noteworthy. "Dalma," a hearty lentil and vegetable stew, is a staple in most households during this time.
Chef Debasish Sahu of a popular Odia restaurant in Bhubaneswar explains:
"Dalma is comfort food for Odias. During puja, we make a special version called 'Habisa Dalma,' prepared without onion and garlic. It's a simple dish, but packed with flavors and nutrition."
Another beloved dish is "Besara," a unique preparation of vegetables cooked with mustard paste. Its tangy, spicy flavor provides a perfect contrast to the sweeter offerings.
Culture on a Plate
The puja food of Odisha is a reflection of its cultural ethos. The emphasis on vegetarian dishes during this time highlights the state's spiritual inclinations. The use of local, seasonal ingredients showcases the region's biodiversity and sustainable food practices.
Dr. Priya Ranjan Mahapatra, a cultural anthropologist, observes:
"The puja food traditions of Odisha are a living museum of our cultural evolution. The preference for rice-based dishes, the use of pancha phutana (five spices) in tempering, and the balance of sweet and savory - all these elements tell the story of our land and people."
The communal aspect of food preparation and distribution during puja also strengthens social bonds. Many neighborhoods organize community feasts called "Panta Bhoja," where people come together to cook and share meals.
Preserving Tradition in Modern Times
While traditional dishes remain popular, there's a growing trend of innovation in Odia puja cuisine. Young chefs and home cooks are experimenting with fusion dishes that blend traditional flavors with modern presentations.
Smruti Pattnaik, a food blogger from Berhampur, shares her perspective:
"I love creating dishes that honor our traditions but appeal to younger palates. For instance, I make a 'Chhenapoda Cheesecake' that combines our beloved chhenapoda (baked cheese dessert) with a Western-style cheesecake. It's a hit during our puja gatherings!"
As Odisha embraces change, efforts are also being made to document and preserve traditional recipes. Local food festivals, cookbooks, and social media campaigns are playing a crucial role in this culinary conservation.
The puja season in Odisha is a feast for the senses, where age-old recipes come alive in kitchens across the state. It's a time when food transcends its role as mere sustenance, becoming a medium of devotion, a carrier of culture, and a binding force for communities. As the aroma of ghee-laden sweets and spice-infused savories fills the air, it's clear that in Odisha, puja is not just celebrated with the heart and soul, but also with the palate.
