When there were no food bloggers and celebrity chefs, there was one name that resonated with culinary excellence: Chef Imtiaz Qureshi: a chef; a culinary maestro, who single-handedly revived ancient cooking techniques and transformed the way India perceived its own cuisine. His journey, from a humble kitchen helper to the first celebrity chef of India, is a testament to passion, dedication, and an unwavering commitment to preserving culinary heritage.
When fast food was the rage, and traditional Indian cooking was fading into the background. Qureshi swam against the tide, bringing back the forgotten art of "dum pukht," the slow-cooking method of the Mughal emperors, and elevating Awadhi cuisine to an art form. He took biryani, a dish often enjoyed by the masses, and turned it into a gourmet experience, a culinary masterpiece worthy of royalty.
Qureshi's story is one of sheer grit and determination. He started his culinary journey by preparing simple fare like halwa-puri and boiling eggs, catering to British soldiers. But his innate talent and passion for food propelled him forward. He spent years honing his skills, learning from the best, and immersing himself in the world of flavours and spices. He recalled spending countless hours around tandoors, observing and learning the nuances of each dish. His dedication was so profound that he often worked without pay, driven solely by his desire to master the culinary arts.
His big break came when he stepped in to save a grand feast hosted by the renowned ghazal singer Begum Akhtar. When the head chef failed to appear, the young Qureshi stepped up, conjuring up a meal that perfectly matched Akhtar's expectations. This incident showcased his remarkable ability to understand and execute culinary visions, setting the stage for his future success.
Over the years, Qureshi's culinary creations graced the tables of prime ministers, presidents, and dignitaries from across the globe. From Jawaharlal Nehru and Atal Bihari Vajpayee to Bill Clinton and Tony Blair, his food captivated the palates of the world's most influential figures. But his most enduring legacy lies in the revival of dum pukht cooking. This technique, which coaxes out the maximum flavor from ingredients through slow and gentle cooking, was on the verge of extinction when Qureshi brought it back into the limelight. He championed this traditional method, showcasing its versatility and transforming it into a mainstream culinary sensation.
Born into a family of cooks who had served the Nawabs of Lucknow, food was in Qureshi's blood. He started learning the ropes at the tender age of nine, assisting his uncle in the kitchen. By his early teens, he was already impressing diners, including the legendary Dadabhai Naoroji, with his exceptional biryani. His early experiences with large-scale cooking, including preparing meals for thousands of British soldiers, proved invaluable in his later career.
Qureshi's journey to ITC Hotels was a stroke of serendipity. While catering a wedding at a hotel in Aurangabad, his culinary prowess caught the attention of Ajit Haksar, the then head of ITC Hotels. Haksar recognized Qureshi's talent and brought him on board, giving him a platform to showcase his culinary genius.
At ITC, Qureshi revolutionized Indian fine dining. He insisted on using traditional copper vessels, even buying them himself when the management initially resisted. He also transformed biryani from a mass-produced dish to a gourmet delight, served individually in sealed earthenware. He masterfully blended elements of Lucknowi and Hyderabadi biryani, creating a unique and unforgettable culinary experience. His contributions extended beyond biryani; he revived classic Awadhi dishes like kakori kebabs and galouti kebabs, bringing them back to their former glory.
Qureshi's impact on Indian cuisine is immeasurable. He not only revived forgotten culinary traditions but also elevated Indian food to a global level. He proved that Indian cuisine could be as sophisticated and celebrated as any other cuisine in the world. His legacy continues to inspire chefs and food lovers alike. He mentored numerous chefs, passing on his knowledge and passion for Awadhi cooking. His eldest son, Ishtiyaque Qureshi, now runs Kakori House, a restaurant that carries forward the Qureshi family's culinary legacy.
Chef Imtiaz Qureshi's story is a reminder that culinary artistry is not just about technique; it's about passion, dedication, and a deep respect for tradition. He was a pioneer, a visionary, and an inspiration to generations of chefs. His contributions to Indian cuisine will continue to be celebrated for years to come, ensuring that his legacy lives on in every flavorful bite.
