Bhubaneswar: In the world of culinary disputes, few have been as passionately contested as the "Rasgulla debate" between Odisha and West Bengal. For nearly a decade, these neighboring Indian states have engaged in a spirited battle over the origin of the beloved spongy, syrup-soaked sweet that has become an iconic part of Indian cuisine.
The dispute, which began formally in 2015 when Odisha sought a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for its version of Rasgulla, has evolved beyond government offices and courtrooms to become a matter of cultural identity and pride for millions of people in both states.
"This isn't just about a sweet," explains Dr. Ananya Chatterjee, a food historian from Kolkata. "Rasgulla represents cultural heritage and identity for both Bengalis and Odias. When you claim ownership of a food, you're claiming a piece of history."
The controversy intensified in 2017 when West Bengal secured a GI tag for "Banglar Rasgulla," seemingly settling the dispute in their favor. However, Odisha maintained that their version, which they trace back to the 12th century offerings at the Jagannath Temple in Puri, predates Bengal's claim.
"The sweet offered as 'kheer mohana' during the Rath Yatra festival is the predecessor of what we now know as Rasgulla," insists Dr. Biswanath Patra, an Odia food historian and author of "The Culinary Heritage of Odisha." "Historical texts and temple records clearly indicate that Rasgulla originated as a temple offering in Puri centuries before it appeared in Bengal."
Both states have produced historical documents, literary references, and cultural practices to support their claims. West Bengal points to confectioner Nobin Chandra Das, who is widely credited with perfecting the modern version of Rasgulla in the 1860s in Kolkata. Odisha, meanwhile, cites ancient temple traditions and texts that mention similar milk-based sweets.
The dispute has even led to the creation of "Rasgulla Dibasa" (Rasgulla Day) celebrations in Odisha, marked annually on July 30th to commemorate what they claim is the sweet's true heritage. Social media campaigns with hashtags like #RasagollaDibasa have helped spread awareness of Odisha's claim.
"When I first heard about this debate, I was amused," says food blogger Mekhala Mohanty. "But after researching the history, I realized how deeply intertwined food is with our sense of who we are. Both states have compelling cases, and the truth probably lies somewhere in between—with each region developing their own unique version over time."
The legal battle reached a zenith in 2018 when Odisha was granted a GI tag for "Odisha Rasagola." This recognition acknowledged that both states have their distinctive versions of the sweet, each with unique characteristics reflecting regional culinary traditions.
"The GI tags for both 'Banglar Rasgulla' and 'Odisha Rasagola' recognize that these are distinct products with different histories and preparation methods," explains intellectual property rights attorney Vikram Patnaik. "It's similar to how different regions in Europe can produce their own protected versions of cheese or wine."
Despite this apparent resolution, the debate continues to simmer in cultural discussions and occasionally boils over on social media. During festivals and cultural events, the origin story of Rasgulla often resurfaces, with passionate advocates on both sides.
"My grandmother taught me to make Rasgulla the traditional Odia way, which is different from the Bengali version," shares Anjali Mohanty, a home chef from Bhubaneswar. "Our version is less spongy, slightly larger, and uses different proportions of chenna (cottage cheese) and syrup. The technique has been passed down for generations in Odisha."
On social media, the debate occasionally turns heated. "Every time I post about making Rasgulla at home, I get comments arguing about whether I'm making it the 'right' way—meaning either the Bengali or Odia version," says food influencer Rohan Mishra. "People feel very strongly about this!"
Tourism officials in both states have cleverly capitalized on the controversy, incorporating Rasgulla-themed tours and tastings into their offerings. Visitors can now embark on "Rasgulla trails" in both Kolkata and Bhubaneswar, sampling different versions of the sweet while learning about competing origin stories.
Similarly, sweet shops in Odisha report increased interest in their version. "People come from all over India to taste the original Rasagola from Odisha," says Prakash Sahu, whose family has been making sweets in Puri for over a century.
Food historians suggest that like many culinary traditions, Rasgulla likely evolved over time with influences from both regions. The truth may be less binary than either side claims.
"Food doesn't respect political boundaries," Dr. Chatterjee points out. "Culinary traditions flow across regions, transform, and adapt. What matters is that both Bengali and Odia cultures have embraced Rasgulla and made it their own. Perhaps that's the real story worth celebrating."
